Sri Lanka is home to seven major tea-growing regions, each contributing its own unique character to the globally celebrated Ceylon tea. On this journey, we explore four of these regions, with a special focus on the mid-grown teas of Kandy—one of the island’s most iconic tea-producing provinces. Our mission? To uncover the true essence of Ceylon black tea and deepen our understanding of what makes the perfect milk tea.
Traveling from Colombo, the capital city, it takes about four hours by car to reach the elevated tea country of Kandy. As the altitude climbs, so does the transformation of the landscape—urban storefronts, roadside repair shops, and coconut groves gradually give way to misty hillsides, colonial-era bungalows, and endless rows of manicured tea bushes. This shift isn’t just visual; it marks a transition into a world where tea isn’t just a crop—it’s a culture.
👉 Discover how tea traditions influence modern brewing techniques
The First Stop: A Driver’s Recommendation
Our first visit was to a tea estate recommended by our driver—an unplanned stop, but one that offered insight into how tourism and tea intersect in Sri Lanka. While it's common knowledge that drivers often receive commissions for bringing visitors to certain estates, we welcomed the detour as an opportunity to see more and experience a different facet of the industry.
Before arriving, we paused along the roadside, where vendors sold fresh coconut water and local snacks beneath makeshift tarpaulin shelters. These impromptu stalls, nestled in rugged terrain, added to the raw, unfiltered charm of rural Sri Lanka. Refreshed and reenergized, we continued up a steep 30-degree slope to reach the estate.
Upon arrival, we were greeted in a traditional-style reception hall by staff dressed in vibrant national attire. They walked us through the estate’s history and guided us along the full tea production process—from withering and fermentation to rolling, drying, grading, and packaging. The tour concluded in a tasting room adjacent to the sales area, where guests could sample two complimentary teas before (hopefully) making a purchase.
Understanding Ceylon Tea: Elevation and Terroir
Ceylon tea is traditionally classified by elevation: low-grown (below 600m), mid-grown (600–1,200m), and high-grown (above 1,200m). While high-grown teas like those from Nuwara Eliya are often praised for their delicate flavor and golden tips, mid-grown teas from Kandy offer a bolder, fuller body—ideal for milk tea.
This particular estate sits at around 450 meters above sea level—technically on the border between low and mid-grown zones. Its southwest-facing slopes consist of gray sandy soil with excellent drainage but limited sunlight and high humidity. These conditions lead to lush, fast-growing tea plants with higher moisture content—a terroir that shapes both leaf quality and processing methods.
To compensate for the high water content in the leaves, the estate employs an aggressive withering process, reducing moisture by about 80%. This influences downstream steps: shorter fermentation and incomplete baking result in teas with pronounced tannins and a distinct smoky, woody character. Most Ceylon teas follow the CTC (Crush, Tear, Curl) method, producing small granules ideal for quick infusion—especially in tea bags and milk-based preparations.
Tasting Session: BOP and BOPF Grades
At the tasting table—each equipped with its own kettle—we were served two common grades: BOP (Broken Orange Pekoe) and BOPF (Broken Orange Pekoe Fannings). These are among the most widely used grades for both single-origin black tea and milk tea blends.
Though visually similar, BOPF infuses faster—over 30 seconds quicker than BOP—due to its finer cut. The liquor appeared dark amber with reddish-brown undertones. Aromas leaned toward campfire smoke, while the finish carried noticeable astringency. Overall, the profile was somewhat flat—not ideal for solo sipping, but purposefully crafted for blending and milk pairing.
The estate used the standard Ceylon evaluation brew:
- 350 ml boiling water
- 2.5 g tea
- 4-minute steep
This method prioritizes consistency over nuance. But knowing that Ceylon tea's true strength lies in milk tea, we adjusted our expectations—and later, our brewing technique.
👉 Learn how terroir affects flavor in every cup
Brewing the Perfect Milk Tea: A Custom Method
Based on our observations, we developed a tailored approach to extract more depth from mid-grown BOP teas:
Ingredients:
- 350 ml water
- 7.5 g BOP tea
- 100 ml full-fat milk
- 2–3 tablespoons sugar (preferably raw brown sugar)
Instructions:
- Bring water to a boil.
- Add 1/3 of the tea leaves and simmer gently for 1 minute.
- Pour in milk and sugar; continue simmering for another minute.
- Add remaining tea leaves, remove from heat.
- Steep for 4 minutes.
- Strain and serve in a large mug (~420 ml yield).
- For a creamier finish, top with extra milk.
This slow-cook method enhances body and brings out subtle notes of damp forest floor, woodsmoke, and malty sweetness—qualities often masked by standard brewing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is Ceylon tea?
A: Ceylon tea is black tea grown in Sri Lanka. Originally named during British colonial rule (when the country was called Ceylon), it remains one of the world’s most recognized tea varieties, known for its bright color and brisk flavor.
Q: Is all Ceylon tea high-grown?
A: No. Sri Lanka produces low-, mid-, and high-grown teas. Kandy represents mid-elevation teas with robust character, while regions like Nuwara Eliya produce lighter, floral high-grown varieties.
Q: Why is Ceylon tea good for milk tea?
A: Mid- and low-grown Ceylon teas have strong tannic structure and malty notes that hold up well against milk and sugar. Their bold profiles don’t get lost in creamy preparations.
Q: What does BOP mean in tea grading?
A: Broken Orange Pekoe refers to small, broken leaves that infuse quickly. It’s commonly used in tea bags and blends due to its efficiency and consistent strength.
Q: Can you drink Ceylon black tea plain?
A: Yes—but choose higher-grade or high-grown varieties for better clarity and aroma. Mid- and low-grown types work best when brewed stronger or with milk.
Q: How should I store Ceylon tea?
A: Keep it in an airtight container away from light, heat, and strong odors. For optimal freshness, consume within 6–12 months.
Final Thoughts
This unplanned stop revealed more than just how tea is made—it showed how environment, tradition, and intention shape every cup. While not all estates produce award-winning leaves, each contributes to the rich tapestry of Sri Lankan tea culture.
Whether you're sipping a smoky BOP brew in Kandy or crafting your own milk tea at home, remember that great flavor starts with understanding origin. And sometimes, the best discoveries come from a driver’s recommendation.
👉 Explore how tradition meets innovation in global tea culture